A Hidden Gem

Rimas Zailskas

Preliminary research can reveal little when visiting a restaurant for the first time, and such was the case with Vue, Hendersonville's newest wine bar.

Perusing the list of options before a visit stirred up that familiar unsettling sense of curiosity — can the chef inject enough life into a rather basic-sounding menu to hold diners' interests? Especially when the menu is composed of barely more than a dozen options, will there be enough to satisfy curious and discriminating palates? I entered into my Vue experience with a critical eye but a hopeful heart.

Trepidation melted away as soon as the door swung open to reveal the cozy interior. Darkened windows conceal a beauty of a restaurant that applies the comforting inclusiveness of a warm tavern to the sensibilities of a sophisticated bistro and wine bar.

The interior of Vue is a warmly lit and dressed grotto that simply has that certain feeling to it — that level of comfort and intimacy that immediately inspires guests to canoodle in the corner over a flight of wine and a comforting plate of food. The warm brick walls, the almost chocolaty red wallpaper that gives the impression that the walls are covered with textured leather, the dark wood everywhere — all hint at the culinary and oenophilic pleasures to come.

The space is, once again, intimate. There are few other words that suit Vue so well. There are about 30 seats in the main dining room with a few more upstairs, in a space that is essentially intended as more of a wine-bar style lounge area. The table at which we were seated was actually an old butcher block that once belonged to co-owner Ariel Glassman's grandmother, its surface grooved by a knife that had lovingly carved out many meals past. The staff are warmly friendly, but not cloyingly so, and immediately set an unobtrusive air of hospitality that lingers pleasantly throughout the remainder of the dining experience.

Rimas Zailskas

Each course on the menu is paired with a selection from Vue's extensive wine list, a list that carries yet another pleasant surprise. Turns out that the ownership is not only young, but also highly talented and knowledgeable on the multiple levels that running a restaurant requires. Selections are varied and interesting, likely owing to the fact that co-owner Lawrence Kobesky is a trained sommelier and is currently training to be a master sommelier. The list is primarily old world, boasting over 50 wines by the glass, and separated by flavor profile rather than region — another comfortable touch.

More surprises lie in store on a hand-lettered chalkboard that touts special offerings for the day, alongside the assortment of cheeses the restaurant offers daily. Cryptically, it read only 'foie gras' on the night that we dined. Intrigued and urged into action by my greatest guilty pleasure, it was a dish I couldn't pass up and was immediately glad that I hadn't. It was a whimsical composition, a take on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with a fig jam, a sweet gelee of blueberry and wine and marcona almond crusted foie served with toasted ciabatta. The jam and gelee were a bit sweet, the foie a bit salty, and it was the type of dish that induces fits of eye-rolling and restrained moaning.

A plate of bratwurst with Austrian potato salad and a smear of mustard was a satisfying contrast in simplicity, especially with the Prima Pilsner that was its recommended (and perfect) accompaniment. Far more delicious, however, was a hamachi tartar with yuzu-ginger vinaigrette and a smattering of fried wonton threads. The fish was incredibly fresh, perfectly cubed and lightly spiked with what tasted like Sriracha and a hint of Japanese mayonnaise. As the restaurant was dark enough to be a shade past romantically-lit, it was difficult to get visual confirmation.

Far and away the best dish of the evening was perhaps the simplest. The short ribs with celeriac gratin and a loose scattering of radicchio slaw were outrageously good. They were justifiably recommended by the server, who answered in a hilariously grave affirmative when my dining partner asked if the dish was good enough "to make us want to fight each other." If the gratin had been perhaps a touch less salty, there might have indeed been some wrestling at the table. A Sattler Zweigelt, the recommended pairing, was right on the money. Our server described it as "friendly," though we dubbed it as "perhaps a little shy, sitting in the corner and quietly judging." Wine is most fun when it causes laughter, I suppose.

That, though, is the type of merriment that Vue inspires with its carefully nurtured and comfortable atmosphere. The prices may at first seem a tad high, but it is very important to remember that paying a bit extra enables the diner to linger. The staff is exceptionally good at reminding guests to savor their food, sample another glass of wine, taste a dish of olives or a bit of Australian goat cheese. Vue is, essentially, a surprisingly good restaurant. It is clear that their goal is to invite a great dining experience to unfold organically, which seems inevitable when tucked into the intimate dining room of this little gem on 5th Avenue.

Rimas Zailskas