Sweet On Maple

Chef Peter Stone presents a signature dish, the pan roasted filet. Rimas Zailskas

Girls' Night Out.

OK, I'm using the term "girl" loosely here, but still...an evening to dress up a bit and look forward to. Never having enough time to get all the gossip in, our threesome took a leisurely drive toward Brevard, chatting and enjoying the scenery along the way. Our destination was Maple, a fairly new addition to this quaint town's restaurant scene.

Open since May, Maple is a converted older home, complete with its namesake tree gracing the front lawn (a covered stone porch offers alfresco dining during warm weather). Soothing earth tones and wide-planked floors lend a feeling of calm and put us in the mood for a leisurely dinner.

Owner and Chef Peter Stone's vision for Maple expresses his love of entertaining. "I wanted people to feel like they were going into someone's home to have a great meal in their dining room." With couches next to a fireplace (which will be lovely in the winter), it lends itself to that homey feeling.

Choose either a cozy booth or one of the well-spaced tables and take a look at Maple's wine list. One of the girls expressed an interest in a particular wine. Without hesitation, our server offered a taste before she ordered a full glass. I just love when that happens! It's a classy thing to do and it made us feel pampered from the outset.

On our way to the table, I couldn't help but notice several diners with large platters of Maple's version of pommes frites. Tiny, crispy little hand-cut matchstick potatoes were piled high and served with "blue cheese fondue," which turned out to be a warm, thick dipping sauce. Positively addictive, we happily talked with our mouths full while making entrée choices. Lump crab beignets with smoked paprika remoulade and apple pear chutney were also enjoyable.

After attending college in Charleston, the Culinary Institute of America was Chef Stone's next stop. After graduation, he played in the "regional big leagues" with stints at both Pano's and Paul's in Atlanta and Magnolias in Charleston. Then, feeling it was time for his own place, he opened the Ellis Creek Bistro, also in Charleston. Ready for a breather from both the kitchen and the shore, Peter opened Toxaway Wine and Cheese in Lake Toxaway. The little shop was a hit but friends persuaded Peter to get back into the restaurant game.

At Maple, he has created a menu that he calls "upscale American, focusing on pure flavors." Peppered salmon over truffle scented polenta with wilted greens and shallot Madeira sauce appealed to one friend and another chose the special of the evening, wahoo over shitake mushroom rice. The salmon was exceptional and the polenta, with more than a scent of truffle, offered a sophisticated touch to the plate. Wahoo, like tuna, can almost seem meaty in taste, and the inherent sweetness of the fish got a kick of Asian flavor from the rice, which had a little jolt of heat to it.

At the suggestion of our waitress, I chose the pan roasted filet mignon. Truly one of the best steaks I've had in years, it came with roasted tomatoes, baby red potatoes stuffed with white cheddar and chives (fabulous!) and red wine braised mushrooms. It was really an exceptional dish. The chef's plate presentations and knife skills attest to his classical training, but he keeps his focus on what really matters. The entrée was the star in all three dishes, with the accompanying sides playing a supporting role.

Maple offers full bar service, and I can attest to a very good, icy cold cosmopolitan. The wine list was priced between $22-115, and offered a number of choices in both whites and reds. We chose a French Rose, which paired nicely with all of our dinner choices.

Winding down, we couldn't resist trying Maple's signature dessert, a maple crème brulèe. Our three spoons took care of it in a hurry. Creamy, with a subtle maple flavor in the background, this was a perfect ending to dinner.

"My food is simple but refined...refined comfort food," says Chef Stone. I would agree. Maple is a calming, sophisticated but unpretentious little restaurant that focuses on top quality ingredients, prepared artfully as well as tastefully.

Maple

Monday-Saturday from 5:30pm